Peru 2019: Inca Trail Day One

First stop: breakfast.

Sunday, Jan. 6, 2019

Our guide, Marcos, and cook picked us up at 6:10 this morning.

What do you know: We are getting a private tour just for the four of us. We didn't ask for it; that's just the way the cards fell.

We loaded the mini-bus, piled in and headed for the hills. OK, mountains. Actually, we were already in the mountains as Cusco sits at 3,399 metres (11,152 feet) above sea level and is surrounded by mountains. In any case, off we went, winding and bouncing through the Andes to the soundtrack of both Andean flute (quena or zampoña) music and chicha, the Peruvian equivalent of cumbia. There really could be no better music to drive through South America to and no better setting in which to listen to that music.

We were off to a good start.

About an hour later we reached our first stop: a restaurant and general store just outside Ollantaytambo where we could buy breakfast (the only meal not included in the price of the trekking package) and any last-minute supplies. Breakfast was a full spread: cheese, meat, eggs, avocado, fruit, cereals, bread, coffee, tea and hot chocolate were all available. We ate while listening to the group of American and Argentinian guys at the next table compare notes on weed consumption and availability. "I live in California so I pretty much have to smoke weed," said one.

We also played Guess This Song, trying to place the flute renditions of everything from Paul Simon to Céline Dion to the Beatles that accompanied our meal.

Then we bought a few snacks, some rain ponchos (January is rainy season in the Andes), sunblock and bug repellant. We used the quite acceptable bathroom facilities and boarded the bus for a final half-hour ride to our dropoff point, known as Kilometre 82, where we got our walking sticks and bedrolls to attach to our packs and started our hike, crossing over and making our way up from the Urubamba River.

And we're off!

•

The Urubamba river.

2 p.m.

So we are half way through Day One of the Inca Trail. It has been difficult, exhausting and awe-inspiring.

Of course the views are gorgeous and breathtaking. The mountains, the sky, the rivers and waterfalls, the mist and clouds, the ruins. Words and even photos cannot do it justice.

But I am also awed by the people who work these tours. First, the porters – called portadores or chasquis – who carry the food, kitchen supplies and tents. They haul enormous packs weighing as much as 25 kilos on their backs and they move much faster than we do with our little 8-kilo backpacks. My trapezius is aching (screaming, actually) after just half a day carrying my stuff. Meanwhile, they arrive at camp then pitch our tents and cook our meals! Then there is Marco, our guide, who does this trek 80 times a year!

We just ate lunch and it was fantastic! We arrived to our lunch spot, a sunny, grassy clearing surrounded by imposing Andes mountains, to find a tent set up with a folding table (complete with festive Peruvian tablecloth) and stools and we were served the most amazing meal, which even took into account Mia's and my vegetarianism: egg and asparagus soup with garlic bread followed by lomo saltado for the boys, mushrooms saltado (delicious!) for the girls, plus rice, mashed potatoes and delicious guacamole. Fantastic and about 1,000 better than last night's restaurant nightmare!

Off to hike some more!

Up close or far away, all the views are breathtaking.

•

5:30 p.m.

I have no force left in my body.

But we did it! Day One is complete!

What a challenge and what an experience. Walks through forest with the sound of birds and rushing river to accompany us; ascents in the hot sun that took us to the brink of giving up; breathtaking vistas around every bend; animals everywhere – though aside from birds and insects all were domesticated: pigs, cows, donkeys, horses, chickens, dogs, cats, all roaming the paths and mountainsides freely.

In terms of our group, Shane always takes the lead and Wolf the rear, with Mia and me somewhere in between. For the last part of today, Shane got too far ahead, didn't wait for us at the designated rendez-vous point and I spent a good 30 to 40 minutes in a bit of a panic. But we found him at camp and all is well, sunburns, bug bites and exhaustion aside.

We made it! Day One is done!

•

3:15 a.m.

I've been lying awake for over an hour in total darkness. It's rare for me to be in such pitch black, seeing exactly the same thing with my eyes open or closed.

And there's not much to hear either: the rushing water of the river nearby, dogs barking in the distance and the occasional swishing of Mia's sleeping bag if she moves in her sleep.

I kind of need to pee, but the bathroom, a wet, mucky floor, a seatless toilet bowl, a stinky garbage can full of soiled paper and a grimy bucket next the stream running past to use for rinsing hands (the stream) and flushing (the bucket). It's unappealing in daylight, let alone at 3 a.m. My bladder will have to wait.

We will be roused at 5 a.m. to start our day – the hardest day, they say – so I will turn off the light and try again to sleep.

Next: Inca Trail Day Two

Previously:
Cusco
Arequipa welcomes our stomachs
Airports and arrival